Tongariro Northern Circuit
Tongariro Northern Circuit - Great Walk Snapshot
As I cautiously edged my way down the Dragon's Tail, the heat intensified, volcanic steam and poisonous gases escaping wherever they could from the surrounding rubble. Reaching the valley floor, sunlight beat down mercilessly and not satisfied, it then bounced back up from the glaringly white sand.
Assuming it was compressed, I tugged harder on my hydration tube which remained stubbornly dry. Running out of water in the midst of a desert on a hot summer’s day was clearly not my intention but it was my reality.
Tongariro Northern Circuit Great Walk
The Tongariro Northern Circuit takes hikers though a vast volcanic landscape with stark glacial contrasts and alpine views. The circuit encompasses the Tongariro Alpine Crossing and highlights include spectacular views of the three volcanoes; Tongariro, Ngauruhoe and Ruapehu and on an exceptionally clear day, even Taranaki way in the distance. There’s vivid crater lakes that in the sunshine are a brilliant emerald green or turquoise blue, steaming volcanic vents, ancient lava flows and exotic alpine vegetation.
Tongariro Alpine Crossing
Head over to my Tongariro Alpine Crossing article to read in detail about that section of the walk.
Tongariro National Park
Tongariro National Park was established in 1894, a first for New Zealand and only the fourth National Park in the world. It was established to ensure the continued protection of Tongariro. The mountains at the heart of the park have cultural and spiritual significance to Ngāti Tuwharetoa, symbolising the spiritual links between this community and it’s environment.
Dual World Heritage Site
The Tongariro National Park is a dual world heritage site which recognises both the natural environment and the cultural and spiritual significance this land has to local Maori.
Mount Ngauruhoe, Tongariro Northern Circuit Great Walk, Tongariro National Park
Whakapapa Village
Whakapapa is an alpine village nestled into the lower slopes on the western side of Mount Ruapehu. It marks the base of the Bruce Road ("the Bruce") and is the gateway to the Whakapapa ski field.
The village is the main entrance to Tongariro National Park and in the immediate vicinity, offers many beautiful short walking tracks as well as access to longer walks including the Northern Circuit.
The majority of people start their Circuit in Whakapapa Village as it’s there that you can collect your hut or camping permits and also leave your car. Call in to the Whakapapa National Park Visitor Centre for all of the above as well as for updates on weather and track conditions.
Although a village, there’s limited resupply facilities for hikers so be sure to stock up on all your hiking equipment and food before you arrive.
Best Time to Walk the Tongariro Northern Circuit
The best time to walk the Tongariro Northern Circuit is during the Great Walks season which is from the end of October until the end of April.
It’s possible to attempt the Circuit outside of the Great Walks season however there’s fewer facilities. Walking the track during winter should only be attempted by fit, experience and well-equipped people as there’s additional hazards.
How Long is Tongariro Northern Circuit
The Tongariro Northern Circuit is 44.9 kilometres long. This does not include the side quests mentioned below.
Clockwise or Anti Clockwise
The Tongariro Northern Circuit can be walked in either direction with the only real consideration for effort being the high point of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, 1,868 metres above sea level. From either direction it’s a steep climb up above the Red Crater however the section beside the Emerald Lakes Ngā Rotopounamu is comprised of loose volcanic scree.
When walking New Zealand’s 3000 kilometre Te Araroa we approached the Crossing from the opposite direction to normal. This was equivalent to completing the Circuit in an anti clockwise direction. Climbing up to the Red Crater with a full thru hiker’s pack felt like two steps forward and one step back and we were further challenged by the freezing rain and wind!
Choosing a clockwise direction, the Circuit begins at Whakapapa Village, then you’ll head across ancient lava flows to the Mangatepōpō Hut. The following day you’ll join the Tongariro Alpine Track as it meanders up the Mangatepōpō Valley passing the Soda Springs Junction before climbing steeply to the Red Crater and more steeply on that loose volcanic scree down past the Emerald Lakes Ngā Rotopounamu.
Once more leaving behind the crowds on the Alpine Crossing, you’ll then descend into the Oturere valley as described in my introduction, before finally arriving at the Oturere Hut.
Descending into Oturere Valley, Tongariro Northern Circuit Great Walk, Tongariro National Park
The next stage takes you across open gravel fields, down through a beech forested valley, past the Waihohonu Stream and up to the Waihohonu Hut.
The last stage takes you up and over the Tama Saddle, past Taranaki Falls before completing your circuit at Whakapapa Village.
Tongariro Northern Circuit Side Quests
There’s five side quests that are worthy of inclusion in your circuit:
Soda Springs
Towards the top of the Mangatepōpō Valley are the Soda Springs which can be glimpsed from the main trail. If there’s been plenty of rain, it’s worth the wander over to them for a closer look particularly in summer when the springs create a small oasis of lush yellow mountain buttercups and white foxgloves.
Time: 30 minutes return from Tongariro Northern Circuit / Tongariro Alpine Crossing Track
Blue Lake Te Wai Whakaata o te Rangihīroa
From the Tongariro Alpine Crossing / Northern Circuit junction below the Emerald Lakes Ngā Rotopounamu, continue on the Alpine Crossing track to see the amazing Blue Lake Te Wai Whakaata o te Rangihīroa
Time: 30 minutes return from Tongariro Alpine Crossing / Northern Circuit Junction
Blue Lake, Tongariro Northern Circuit Great Walk, Tongariro National Park
Ohinepango Springs
Here you’ll find crystal clear cold water bubbling up from beneath the old lava flow before discharging into the Ohinepango Stream. If you’ve not the energy to go to the Ohinepango Springs but would still like somewhere to cool off, the Waihohonu Stream has some swimming spots worthy of exploring alongside the Waihohonu campsite.
Time: 1 hour return from the Waihohonu Hut.
Historic Waihohonu Hut
Built in 1904, the Historic Waihohonu Hut was the very first hut built in Tongariro National Park and is a wonderful example of a typical early two-room hut. It was built to accommodate park visitors and tourists travelling by coach from Waiouru or Tonaanu though intensive use dropped off with the opening of the Main Trunk Line in 1908.
The hut’s two rooms comprised the main or men’s bunk room and the women’s bunk room, each sleeping six people. Unusually, the walls which are clad and lined with corrugated iron are insulated with pumice.
Time: 20 minutes return from Waihohonu Hut or 10 minute return from the Tongariro Northern Circuit
Historic Waihohonu Hut, Tongariro Northern Circuit Great Walk, Tongariro National Park
Tama Lakes
Tama Lakes are two infilled explosion craters and combined, offer a stunning introduction to the Tongariro National Park. When walked as a stand alone walk (Whakapapa Village - Tama Lakes Return), this walk rivals the Tongariro Alpine Crossing and is worthy of consideration as an alternative to the Tongariro Crossing.
The junction to Tama Lakes can be accessed about half way between Waihohonu Hut and Whakapapa Village.
Time: 20 minutes return to Lower Tama from the Northern Circuit / Tama Lakes Junction.
1 hour 30 minutes return to Upper Tama from the Northern Circuit / Tama Lakes Junction
Questions
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Tongariro Northern Circuit Itinerary
The standard Tongariro Northern Circuit Itinerary is four days and three nights. All times are dependant on the weather conditions of the day.
Tongariro Northern Circuit Day 1 Itinerary
Whakapapa Village to Mangatepōpō Hut
Time: 3-5 hours
Distance: 9.4 kilometres
Tongariro Northern Circuit Day 2 Itinerary (part 1)
Mangatepōpō Hut to Emerald Lakes
Time: 3 hours 30 minutes
Distance: 8 kilometres
Tongariro Northern Circuit Day 2 Itinerary (part 2)
Emerald Lakes to Oturere Hut
Time: 1 hour 30 minutes
Distance: 4 kilometres
Tongariro Northern Circuit Day 3 Itineray
Oturere Hut to Waihohonu Hut
Time: 3 hours
Distance: 8.1 kilometres
Tongariro Northern Circuit Day 4 Itinerary
Waihohonu Hut to Whakapapa Village
Time: 5 hours
Distance: 15.4 kilometres
Weather Conditions on Tongariro Northern Circuit
Weather can change suddenly, from warm and sunny to cold and wet with strong winds and I’ve experienced them all while in Tongariro. Dress warmly as wind-chill can be severe. Be prepared for all conditions.
Emerald Lakes, Tongariro Alpine Crossing / Tongariro Northern Circuit Great Walk, Tongariro National Park, New Zealand
Check the Tongariro National Park weather forecast (NIWA website).
When the wind becomes too strong, the Alpine Crossing section of the track will be closed.
Before leaving Whakapapa, by changing the direction of your circuit, you may be able to time the Crossing to before or after the forecast high wind. Your hut / campsite bookings will of course need to match your intended direction as the bookings are specific to the hut or campsite.
Who Can Walk Tongariro Northern Circuit
Tongariro Northern Circuit is one of New Zealand’s Great Walks with a clearly defined trail and comparatively good facilities. In places however, the terrain is difficult and it’s not recommended for children under the age of ten.
The Circuit travels over exposed mountainous landscapes and often with adverse weather conditions. Once on the trail and away from the huts, for the most part you’re completely exposed to the elements.
Extra caution is required when descending the 400 metre section (the Dragon’s Tail) of the Tongariro Northern Circuit that drops from the lowest Emerald Lake down into the Oturere Valley, toward Oturere Hut.
This section has steep and slippery sections with small rocks covering the hard lava surface. The rocks are often sharp and tends to be most rubbly (like marbles) in dry conditions.
Can You Walk Tongariro Northern Circuit without a Guide
Tongariro Northern Circuit may be walked independently of a guide and as a Great Walk, it is very well signposted with plenty of directional signs and markers. When you walk without a Guide, you will use the Department of Conservation facilities which are the ones referenced in my article.
During the Great Walks Season, a ranger is stationed at each hut and they will check you in around the time you arrive. At night, the ranger gives a hut talk to alert you as to what’s coming, weather updates, the tracks history and condition, what to look out for and other useful information.
If you’re camping, make sure to attend the hut talk as the information shared is invaluable. The ranger will also update the noticeboard early in the morning with the latest weather forecast.
As Tongariro Northern Circuit can be walked in either direction, you’ll likely encounter new people in the huts at night. This can be a great way to share up to the minute updates on what the track is like ahead.
Signage on Tongariro Alpine Crossing / Tongariro Northern Circuit Great Walk, Tongariro National Park
Tongariro Northern Circuit Facilities
Tongariro Northern Circuit is a New Zealand Great Walk, and during the Great Walk season (late October to late April) you will need to pre-book your trip online.
Outside of the Great Walk season, huts are on a first come first served basis but fees still apply.
Most people choose to spread the walk across four days and three nights using the three huts and associated campsites at Mangatepōpō, Oturere, Waihohonu.
The huts have basic facilities with communal bunk rooms containing bunks and mattresses. There are toilets, basic cooking facilities, solar-powered lighting and cold running water.
During the Great Walk season, there will be a ranger in residence. There’s no cooking utensils or showers.
Tongariro Northern Circuit Mobile and Emergency Communications
Mobile reception is reasonably good along the track though there’s only limited coverage at Waihohonu Hut.
There are some sections with no coverage at all and I recommend you take your emergency communication device and familiarise yourself with how to use it before heading onto the trail.
How Much does Tongariro Northern Circuit Cost
Hut and Campsite Fees
Hut and Campsite Fees for Tongariro Northern Circuit vary depending on whether you’re a New Zealand or an International visitor and whether you’re an adult or child.
Hut Fees - per person, per night
NZ - New Zealand Visitor
INT - International Visitor
Great Walk Season - 25 October to 30 April
Adult NZ (18+ years): $44
Adult INT (18+ years): $66
Child NZ (5-17 years): $22
Child INT (0-17 years): $33
Infant NZ (0-4 years): Free
Outside Great Walk Season - May to October
Adult NZ (18+ years): $25
Adult INT (18+ years): $25
Child NZ (5-17 years): $12.50
Child INT (0-17 years): $12.50
Infant NZ (0-4 years): Free
Campsite Fees - per person, per night
Great Walk Season - 25 October to 30 April
Adult NZ (18+ years): $19
Adult INT (18+ years): $28
Child NZ (5-17 years): $9
Child INT (0-17 years): $14
Infant NZ (0-4 years): Free
Outside Great Walk Season - May to October
Adult NZ (18+ years): $10
Adult INT (18+ years): $10
Child NZ (5-17 years): $5
Child INT (0-17 years): $5
Infant NZ (0-4 years): Free
Booking for the 2025 / 2026 season open at 9.30am on Thursday 22 May 2025.
Book Tongariro Northern Circuit
Bookings are not required for the Tongariro Northern Circuit huts outside the Great Walk Season (May to late October). During this time, huts are available on a first come, first served. Fees still apply. Payment is with Backcountry Hut Tickets or a Backcountry Hut Pass. Buy these from a DOC visitor centre before you go: Whakapapa National Park Visitor Centre
Where is Tongariro Northern Circuit
Tongariro Northern Circuit is located in Tongariro National Park on the Central Plateau in the Manawatu-Ruapehu Region.
It is south of Auckland, south west of Taupo and Turangi and north of Wellington.
Where Does Tongariro Northern Circuit Start
Tongariro Northern Circuit is a loop track which can be walked in either direction though the most popular way is to take a clockwise route.
The Tongariro Northern Circuit entry and exit trailhead is at Whakapapa Village. Car’s can be left with a free DOC permit showing on the dashboard in the carpark below Chateau Tongariro.
Getting to and from Tongariro Northern Circuit
Drive
Drive to Whakapapa Village and leave your vehicle as described above.
Public Transport
Public transport is an option. Bus and train services run to Waimarino / National Park town.
Shuttle
Regular shuttles transfer hikers from Waimarino / National Park town and Turangi to the start of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing at the Mangatepōpō Road end. If starting the Circuit from there, you’ll have to rejig your hut plan to suit.
Good To Know Distances
Hiking
Tongariro Northern Circuit 44.9 kilometres (four days, three nights)
Driving
Waimarino National Park to Whakapapa Village Visitor Information Centre 16 km, 13 min
Tūrangi to Whakapapa Village Visitor Information Centre 47 km, 36 min
Taupō to Whakapapa Village Visitor Information Centre 97 km, 1 hr 24 min
Wellington to Whakapapa Village Visitor Information Centre 328 km, 4 hrs
Auckland to Whakapapa Village Visitor Information Centre 339 km, 4 hrs
Closest Resupply Town for Tongariro National Park
Waimarino - a small general store and service station
Tūrangi: big supermarkets, outdoor stores
Taupō: big supermarkets, outdoor stores
Closest Accommodation to Tongariro National Park
Tongariro National Park has several Department of Conservation campsites that are accessible by car. Mangahuia Campsite off Highway 47 is particularly well positioned for an early start on the Circuit and has the beautiful Whakapapaiti Stream running through it.
Whakapapa Holiday Park is near the visitor information centre.
There’s plenty of commercial accommodation available in Waimarino, Tūrangi and Taupō. If choosing Taupō, book early as this town fills up fast.
Note that the Chateau Tongariro has permanently closed.
My Tongariro Northern Circuit Statistics
I started the Tongariro Northern Circuit on 7th January and finished four days later on 11th January.
📅 Date: 7/01/22 - 11/01/22
☀️ Weather: Summer, scorching hot with high winds
🌲 Location: Tongariro Northern Circuit, Tongariro National Park, Ruapehu-Manuwatu, New Zealand
⛺️ Accommodation: Campsites alongside the huts
📖 Bookings Required
Tongariro Northern Circuit - Day 1 - Whakapapa Village to Mangatepōpō Hut
Tongariro Northern Circuit - Day 2 - Mangatepōpō Hut to Oturere Hut
Tongariro Northern Circuit - Day 3 - Oturere Hut to Waihohonu Hut
Tongariro Northern Circuit - Day 4 - Waihohonu Hut to Whakapapa Village
Have you walked or are you planning to walk any of New Zealands Great Walks? Share in the comment box your experience on the trails or what you’re most looking forward to.
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As I cautiously edged my way down the Dragon's Tail, the heat intensified, volcanic steam and poisonous gases escaping wherever they could from the surrounding rubble. Reaching the valley floor, sunlight beat down mercilessly and not satisfied, it then bounced back up from the glaringly white sand.
Assuming it was compressed, I tugged harder on my hydration tube which remained stubbornly dry. Running out of water in the midst of a desert on a hot summer’s day was clearly not my intention but it was my reality.