When Things Go Wrong - Ohau
I stood forlornly on the trail as my body trembled with the intensity of my shivering and my teeth chattered uncontrollably.
Tears created by the sub zero temperatures mixed freely with the sleet and snot smeared across my face. I could hardly see through my glasses not that there was anything to see other than the horizontal rain swirling manically about us.
Andrew handed me an OSM bar, with his frozen fingers he couldn’t open the wrapping and thought somehow that I’d be able to. While I fumbled with the wrapping, we attempted to communicate above the howling wind.
Finally getting the bar opened I offered him the larger half, we were clearly living the Te Araroa dream!
The kindness of strangers. Grant and Andrew, Ohau, Canterbury, Te Araroa
Four Seasons
A day earlier we’d walked the thirty two kilometres from Twizel to Ohau with temperatures reaching a scorching 30° Celsius.
Arriving at Lake Middleton, Grant had generously offered us the use of one of his large tents which we’d been quick to accept. His kindness meant we’d have space to spread out and it would save us vital time in the morning which suited us as we wanted an early start.
We were on Day 112 of our 3,000 kilometre walk the length of Aotearoa on Te Araroa and more specifically, the second day of what would be a seven day section. With the extra food, I estimated my pack was around twenty per cent heavier than usual.
Although late January and the height of Aotearoa New Zealand’s summer, as Kiwi’s we were more than familiar with the four seasons in one day that our island nation enjoys.
Andrew, Freehold Creek Track, Ben Ohau Range, Canterbury, Te Araroa
With the weather forecast to deteriorate by the end of the day, we’d been keen to get up and over the day’s nearly fifteen hundred metre saddle as quickly as we could. Our plan was to follow the Freehold Creek trail across the Ben Ohau Range before dropping into the Ahuriri River catchment.
Our trail family were ahead of us and we’d arranged to camp with them near the Ahuriri River, a notoriously difficult river crossing that we’d attempt as a group the following day.
Trust Your Instincts
Shovelling the OSM bar in my mouth I found that although I was soaked to the bone, my mouth had become dry and the dense bar took some chewing to get down.
We’d observed the weather changing behind us as we climbed up to the saddle and Andrew had even suggested we turn back. I’d checked our elevation and noted we were within fifty metres elevation from the highest point and I’d voted to continue.
As we’d ascended the northern slopes, the beech forest had provided shelter for much of the climb and my assumption was, once up and over the saddle, we’d quickly drop into another forest.
Beech Forest, Ben Ohau Range, Canterbury, Te Araroa
Test Your Assumptions
Unhappily though the saddle was not an up and over type and we took seemingly forever to traverse the marshy tableland at the top.
The trail markers were few and far between and the actual trail was difficult to follow hidden as it was by the large tussocks. There were a maze of concealed rills to navigate, further slowing our progress.
When we were finally able to look down the southern slopes of the Ben Ohau Range there was no protective beech forest to be seen.
Having come so far though and with the weather rapidly deteriorating above and behind us, we committed to descending the mountain as rapidly as possible.
It was now nearly five hours since we’d left Lake Middleton and half a dry OSM bar wasn’t going to cut it. At the slow pace we were going, it was apparent we’d not make it down to the proposed Ahuriri River camp any time soon.
Adapt Your Plans
As the temperature dropped further we made the crucial decision to create our own shelter by putting up our tiny tent. Perched on the stony mountainside without a tree in sight there was nowhere immediately apparent. Andrew and I agreed we’d continue on downhill, scouting as we went for somewhere to pitch.
With low cloud and sleet, it was hard to see very far ahead and it was Andrew who first spotted what looked to be a longdrop toilet on the far side of a gully.
Hardly daring to hope, we carried on along our trail and as we came parallel with where he’s seen the longdrop, we could now make out what appeared to be a hut.
Seek Alternatives
Leaving our trail, we scrambled down the steep sidling into the gully and as Andrew paused to collect fresh water from the freezing stream, I climbed the far bank whispering to myself please be open, please be open, please be open.
We’d now been out in the icy weather for seven hours and were more than ready to find shelter.
The tiny, ancient hut was clad in rusty corrugated iron and walking to the far end I found the wooden door was closed.
With a push it slowly creaked opened and I started once more to breathe.
Quail Burn Hut, Ahuriri Conservation Area, Canterbury, Te Araroa
Check For Complacency
With thousands of kilometres in our legs Andrew and I have plenty of experience to draw on however we’re never complacent and are careful with our assumptions. Although we were following a designated trail that day’s environmental conditions created a unique and uncertain situation.
I’d made an assumption thinking the saddle would be an up and over like so many of the other saddles we’d traversed. That assumption turned out to be wrong and I unnecessarily put us in a challenging environment.
Andrew had earlier suggested we turn back but I’d rejected that option, focusing on the river ahead and the need to keep up with our Te Araroa trail family so that we could cross safely as a group.
Be Alert for Decision Bias
While it wasn’t unusual for us to have different opinions, we always talked through all the available options and any decisions as to what course of action to take were made jointly.
We trust each other implicitly and having two viewpoints actually helps us as we’re able to work through any decision bias that may be influencing our judgment and choices.
In uncertain situations such as this one on the trail you learn to trust your instincts and to make confident choices, a skill that applies to all of life’s decisions.
Andrew and Sharon, Ahuriri Conservation Area, Canterbury, Te Araroa
Stay Positive
With the conditions I wasn’t able to film much however when you watch the daily vlog you’ll see us both smiling, actually, we were laughing at the absurdity of our situation.
It’s so important to maintain the right attitude as it helps you to overcome exhaustion, frustration or any negative thoughts that might otherwise arise.
When I was so cold I couldn’t sniff let alone use a tissue to wipe the mucus off my face, I joked about my appearance and what a great catch I was for Andrew.
Under the circumstances he didn’t appear particularly amused by my antics but it kept my spirits up!
Our castle for the night; Quail Burn Hut, Ahuriri Conservation Area, Canterbury, Te Araroa
Embrace Uncertainty
We’d chanced upon the Quail Burn Hut, one of the many huts across Aotearoa New Zealand which are no longer maintained by the Department of Conservation.
The ancient bunks were constructed from beech logs - see I knew there was a forest here once - with wonky wire mesh strung between them.
Only two of the six individual bunks were of any use, the rest had rusted through but two were all we needed.
Changing immediately into our dry clothes, hot food in our tummies and with a cup of tea in hand, we both snuggled deep within our sleeping bags. It was some hours before we began to feel a semblance of warmth creeping back into our veins.
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Quail Burn Hut DOC registration book, Ahuriri Conservation Area, Canterbury, Te Araroa
Nothing Is Permanent
In the late afternoon sensing a turn in the weather I ventured out once more to find the cloud had lifted and the tops from whence we’d descended glaringly white with fresh snow.
Unexpectedly given the time of day, we could see two hikers across the gully who appeared to be heading up the mountain. Like us though, they’d spotted the hut and were looking for a connecting track.
Worried that they were going to continue to the pass, we were pleased to see them shortly making their way over the Quail Burn to join us.
Arlene and Shane were Te Araroa North Bounders (TA NOBO) which is why we’d not met them before. They’d also been caught out by the change in weather and had adapted their plans. With each couple headed in the opposite direction, trail tales were shared as to what lay ahead.
The morning after; Andrew, Arlene and Shane, Quail Burn Hut, Ahuriri Conservation Area, Te Araroa
Keep An Open Mind
Trail days like this and the one that followed show that new paths and opportunities can emerge from unexpected detours or when you have to find an alternative route.
Andrew and I didn’t even discuss crossing the Ahuriri River the following morning, we knew without even going there that after the storm, the river would be a raging torrent. Instead, we happily walked the ten kilometre detour which eventually took us over a road bridge.
After some time we once more rejoined Te Araroa.
New Zealand’s Long Trail, Te Araroa
Te Araroa is not a contiguous trail, rather it’s a collection of conservation trails, private trails, beaches, rivers and connecting roads.
While you can follow the recommended path, as with life, there will be times when your days will not always go to plan and on those days, for safeties sake, you have to adapt.
When the storm cleared; Sharon at Quail Burn Hut, Ahuriri Conservation Area, Canterbury, Te Araroa
Share Your Story
My story is an example of sensible risk management and adapting plans to the changing environmental conditions.
Although I gently encourage everyone to stretch themselves beyond their comfort zone, safety comes first. It may be that the most courageous decision is to turn around so that you can return another day
Have you had a challenging trip that you’d like to share? Now is your opportunity to share your Success Stories with the Freewheeling Kiwi Community so that in turn we may all be inspired by you.
By sharing your story, you’ll help shape the narrative as to who spends time in our beautiful outdoors, you’ll influence others in a positive way and lift up our whole Freewheeling Kiwi Community.
Your story will make an impact to the lives of others and this can only be good for us all. ❤︎
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After a number of attempts to calmly explain to her that she wouldn’t be on her own for long, the deafening sound of rushing water and the rising sense of fear led the conversation to became heated and I eventually ended up screaming at her to turn around.
She went, reluctantly (and, I think, quite fearfully), but I never could get the image of her slipping and being carried away down the river out of my head. Now, if we find ourselves in a similar situation, we don’t do anything unless we can both do it together.