Trail Notes, Trip Stories and Honest Advice from the Field
The Freewheeling Kiwi Blog
Sharon Evans is the founder of Freewheeling Kiwi and one of Australasia's leading small group Himalayan trekking specialists
She has walked the full length of Te Araroa — 3,000 kilometres from Cape Reinga to Bluff — and led multiple groups to Everest Base Camp with a 100% summit success rate. She also treks in Australia, Bhutan, the Annapurna region and across New Zealand.
Your First Overnight Walk
Thinking about your first overnight hike in New Zealand, but not quite sure where to start? There's something special about heading out on a walking track knowing you won't be coming home that evening. Yet questions about fitness, what to pack, where to sleep and what happens if the weather turns can easily put a first-timer off. The good news is you don't need to be an experienced tramper or invest in a mountain of gear to get started. You just need to know how to prepare.
In this guide, I share practical advice from thousands of kilometres of walking in New Zealand and beyond, so you can avoid common beginner mistakes, feel more confident about your first trip and spend less time worrying about what might go wrong. From choosing a manageable track and packing the essentials to planning food, staying safe and enjoying life on the trail, you'll find what you need to take that first step towards a multi-day adventure. Because once you've experienced the freedom of an overnight walk, you might just wonder why you didn't try it sooner. 🌿🥾
The Coromandel Walkway
Walking the Coromandel Walkway between Fletcher Bay and Stony Bay is one of my favourite ways to spend a summer day. It's 20 kilometres return, with views of the Pinnacles, Aotea and Repanga, and an old bridle path that early pioneers forged to link the two bays. Allow about seven hours, take your time, and start from Fletcher Bay if you're not up for the whole thing.
There's no booking system and no queue. You just turn up, pick a good weather window, and start walking. Pohutukawa are often in flower in early summer, so it's a lovely time to go. Bring water, decent shoes and a warm layer for the sea breeze, and head out early before the crowds arrive.
Off-Grid - Choosing Our Own Terms
Two years ago, when we became custodians of Shambhala in the Coromandel bush, there was nothing here. No cabin, no road, no water system or electricity, just regenerating native forest and pine trees.
We spent eighteen months calling a tent home while slowly building a cabin, learning to live in the forest and figuring things out as we went. It has been a journey of hard work, improvisation, family support and plenty of lessons along the way.
Now, living in our basic off grid cabin, I'm still learning what it means to build a different kind of life. From navigating the challenges of solar power and connectivity to finding practical solutions when things don't go to plan, the reality is far removed from the romanticised version of off grid living. But this was never about escaping the world. It was about creating a life on our own terms, with more freedom, a closer connection to the land and the space to choose what matters most.
The Waikato River Trails
Some of New Zealand’s most beautiful outdoor experiences are closer to home than we think.
The Waikato River Trails are a perfect example, offering 104 kilometres of walking and cycling through native bush, along quiet stretches of river and past fascinating hydroelectric history. Having ridden the entire trail and walked almost all of it, I’ve come to appreciate the variety of experiences this wonderful network offers, whatever your pace or level of adventure.
One of my favourite sections runs between Arapuni Dam and Jones Landing, where towering cliffs reflect in still water, swans glide past with their cygnets, and kingfishers dart along the riverbanks.
Add the century old Arapuni Swing Bridge and the remarkable history of the dam and powerhouse, and you have a little adventure that doesn't require travelling far from home. Join me as I explore why sometimes the best discoveries are right on our doorstep.
Reset and Recharge at Lake Ōkataina
There's a particular kind of quiet that settles over a group standing above a lake nobody's spoken about yet. That was Rotongata, sun on the water, no one in any hurry to say something.
The July Reset and Recharge Walk took us into the Ōkataina Trails near Rotorua, through towering kahikatea, twin crater lakes, and a 10 metre waterfall called Te Auheke — tumbling water.
This is the story of that day.
Milford Track Training: How Fit Do You Really Need to Be?
One of the most common questions prospective Milford Track walkers ask is, "Am I fit enough?"
The good news is that you don't need to be an athlete to complete New Zealand's most famous Great Walk.
In this practical guide, I share my experience of the track, what level of fitness is really required, how to prepare for Mackinnon Pass, common training mistakes, and why carrying a lighter pack can often make a bigger difference than spending extra hours in the gym.
Milford Track Weather: What to Expect in Every Month of the Great Walk Season
Planning to walk the Milford Track and wondering what weather awaits?
From spring snow on the surrounding peaks to summer sunshine, autumn mist, and Fiordland's famous rain, conditions can vary dramatically throughout the Great Walk season.
In this month by month guide, I'll share what to expect, how the weather shapes the experience, and why a little rain might actually make your Milford Track adventure even more memorable.
Reset and Recharge in the Waiorongomai Valley
Every walk teaches you something. This one taught me that gold miners were tougher than any of us, that a broken gas bottle is character building, and that sometimes the best thing you can do after six hours in the bush is lower yourself into a hot pool and stay there.
The June Reset and Recharge Walk took us into the Waiorongomai Valley near Te Aroha, a place most people have driven past without ever stopping.
What they don't know is what the valley reveals only to those who walk into it — gold mine tunnels, hidden waterfalls, a swingbridge into the dark, and history scattered through the bush like it was left there yesterday.
This is the story of that day.
Milford Track vs Routeburn vs Kepler: Which Great Walk Should You Choose?
Planning a New Zealand Great Walk but unsure which trail deserves a place on your bucket list? The Milford, Routeburn, and Kepler Tracks are three of the country's most iconic multi day hikes, each offering a unique mix of scenery, challenge, and adventure.
From Milford's towering waterfalls and remote Fiordland wilderness to Routeburn's spectacular alpine vistas and Kepler's sweeping ridgeline views, choosing between them isn't always easy.
In this detailed comparison, I'll share my firsthand experiences on all three tracks and compare the scenery, difficulty, logistics, costs, booking challenges, and overall experience to help you decide which Great Walk is the best fit for your next adventure.
What a Zipline Tour Taught Me About Running Adventure Experiences
A zipline tour in Rotorua became an unexpected reminder that great adventure tourism has very little to do with adrenaline alone.
From safety culture and guest experience to trust, storytelling and operational leadership, the parallels between guiding trekkers in the Himalayas and running high quality adventure experiences in New Zealand are surprisingly similar.
Reset and Recharge in the Kauaeranga Valley
Every idea has a beginning. This one had four women, a Coromandel valley, and a very cold river.
Sharon, Lietta, Karen and Irene gathered from across the North Island for the very first Freewheeling Kiwi Reset and Recharge Walk.
They walked without hurry through ancient native forest, stood beneath a 900 year old Kauri tree, and finished with a freezing swim in the Kauaeranga River and hot tea on the bank.
They arrived as strangers. They left as friends. This is the story of that day.
Te Araroa - Walking Back to Myself
Two years ago I walked the full length of Aotearoa, from Cape Reinga to Stirling Point in Bluff, covering more than 3,000 kilometres over 133 days.
What I expected was a physical challenge and a long-held adventure ticked off the list. What I did not expect was how profoundly the trail would reshape my understanding of rest, simplicity and coming back to myself.
The lessons did not arrive dramatically. They accumulated slowly, step by step, day by day, until something essential had quietly shifted.
Whether you are a long distance hiker or simply someone craving a proper reset, I think some of what Te Araroa taught me might resonate with you too.
Shambhala Reflections – Life Lessons from Living Closer to Nature
Living in a tent in the Coromandel bush while we build our off-grid cabin provides us with lessons in patience, resilience and humility.
Life here is immersive: you wake with the forest, sleep with the forest, and learn to navigate a world where humans are guests rather than masters.
In this post, I reflect on the experience of becoming one with Shambhala, a place of vast contradictions. Embracing those contradictions requires respect, attention and more than a little courage.
Building Our Off-Grid Cabin at Shambhala
Building an off-grid cabin in the Coromandel bush is teaching us far more than construction skills. Surrounded by native forest, wildlife, and the daily realities of tent living, every stage of the build requires patience, adaptability, and respect for the environment.
From muddy tracks and changing weather to the sounds of ruru at night and kākā overhead at dawn, the bush shapes every part of the process.
In this post, I share the experience of slowly building our cabin at Shambhala while living closely with nature. It is a story of simplicity, resilience, and learning to work with the rhythms of the bush rather than against them, all while surrounded by the untamed beauty of the Coromandel ranges.
Tent Life in the Coromandel Bush – Daily Life at Shambhala
Living in a tent at Shambhala brings an intimate connection with the Coromandel bush. Every day is shaped by the rhythms of the forest, from the dawn calls of kākā to the night-time rustle of possums or pigs nearby. Tent life teaches patience, observation, and a quiet awareness that comes only from being fully immersed in nature.
In this post, I share the realities of off-grid tent living, from simple daily routines to the joys and challenges of being so close to wildlife. It is a story of adaptation, reflection, and the small but profound lessons learned when life is stripped back to essentials in the heart of New Zealand’s native bush.
Wildlife Encounters at Shambhala – Ruru, Kākā, Kiwi, and Native Birds
Living at Shambhala brings daily encounters with New Zealand’s remarkable native wildlife. From the calls of ruru at dusk to the kākā heard at dawn, the bush is alive with movement and sound. Even kiwi make their presence known here, reminding me that life in this forested paradise runs to its own rhythms and requires a quiet, respectful presence to fully appreciate it.
In this post, I share some of the most memorable wildlife moments at Shambhala. You will find stories about the ruru and kākā, glimpses of kiwi in their natural habitat, and observations of other native birds. It is a mix of practical advice for noticing wildlife and reflections on the extraordinary connection that comes from living so closely with the untamed bush.
Pest Control in the New Zealand Bush – Living at Shambhala
Living in the Coromandel bush off-grid gives a close-up view of the natural world, and sometimes the introduced wildlife that challenges it. From possums that sneak around at night to semi-grown pigs moving through the undergrowth, life in the bush requires constant awareness and a little courage. Trapping pests is part of the reality of living closely with nature, and it is a reminder of how delicate the balance of this environment truly is.
In this post, I share my experiences managing the introduced species on Shambhala, including possums, pigs, and the ongoing effort to protect the native bush. It includes practical tips, wildlife observations, and reflections on living so closely with the untamed side of New Zealand’s environment.
The Wild Beauty of Living Off-Grid in New Zealand
Living off-grid in the New Zealand bush is both beautiful and slightly unnerving. At Shambhala, the forest hums with life, from the soft calls of ruru at dusk to the sudden rustle of pigs moving through the undergrowth. Each day brings a deeper awareness of the land and its rhythms, where moments of serenity are balanced by reminders that the bush is wild, unpredictable, and very much alive.
In this article, I share the reality of life off-grid in the Coromandel bush including the wildlife encounters, the challenges of tent living while building a cabin, and the lessons learned from living so closely with nature. It’s a story of connection, resilience, and the quiet beauty found in the untamed corners of New Zealand.
Tama Lakes Track Gear Tips for Your Out-and-Back Hike
The Tama Lakes Track in Tongariro National Park is a spectacular alpine day hike, offering panoramic views of Lower and Upper Tama Lakes, Tama Saddle, and the surrounding volcanic peaks.
Though less crowded than the famous Tongariro Alpine Crossing, this out-and-back trail still demands preparation and the right gear.
From sturdy footwear and layered clothing to water, sun protection, and navigation tools, having the essentials can make the difference between a comfortable hike and an exhausting adventure.
In this guide, we break down everything you need for a safe and enjoyable hike, including a complete packing checklist you can download and take with you.
Whether you’re planning a summer trek or tackling the trail in cooler months, our tips will help you stay prepared, enjoy the scenery, and make the most of your Tama Lakes adventure.
Tarawera Falls to Lake Tarawera
Some walks unfold exactly as they should. The journey from Tarawera Falls to Lake Tarawera follows the river through native bush, past cascading water and quiet forest corridors, before opening out to the stillness of the lake.
It’s a steady, unhurried day where the scenery gently shifts and each section invites you to slow down and notice more.
Reaching the lake feels less like an endpoint and more like a pause — a place to sit, eat, breathe, and let the day settle.
With the return journey tracing the same path, there’s time to reflect, to walk with intention, and to enjoy the rare gift of a hike where nothing goes wrong — just movement, presence, and the quiet satisfaction of being there.
Sharon Evans is the founder of Freewheeling Kiwi and one of Australasia's leading small group Himalayan trekking specialists
She has walked the full length of Te Araroa — 3,000 kilometres from Cape Reinga to Bluff — and led multiple groups to Everest Base Camp with a 100% summit success rate. She also treks in Australia, Bhutan, the Annapurna region and across New Zealand.